Don’t Lye to Me!

All of my CP soaps are pH tested to ensure safety of the soap. Testing the pH of soap is an easy way to be sure that the soap is safe to use and does not contain any extra lye. Soap with a high pH (above 10) is likely to be too harsh, or lye-heavy, for use which can irritate or even burn the skin. The pH of homemade soap is an important indicator that the soap is safe to use, yet not for the reason most people think. Many people believe that a soap with a lower pH is milder. I use testing to check that my soaps are within the normal pH of soap, from 7 to 10. This assures me that there is no free lye remaining in the soap and that the soap is safe to use. Lye typically evaporates from the soap 24-48 hours after the saponification process. However, I allow my soaps to cure a minimum of four weeks before being available for shipping. In those weeks after saponification it is the water that I am allowing to evaporate out of the soap which creates a harder, longer lasting bar of soap.

Soap Labels are a Must!

As a soap maker, I like to support other soap makers by purchasing their soaps. I enjoy using others soaps, checking out their labeling, and seeing how they package their product. I like to see what others are doing kind of as a compass for me. While I have my own set of guidelines, I know there is always room for improvement. I follow many other soapers on Instagram and view many different videos on YouTube. I recently made two purchases; one from a soaper who has a strong presence on Facebook and Instagram, the second purchase was from someone who has a strong presence on Instagram. Both post videos regularly and seemingly have a successful soap business. From each, I ordered a variety pack of soaps. I received a minimum of six soaps from each. What I found to be most surprising was when I received my products from these two fellow soapers, not a single one of the soaps had a list of ingredients provided. I double checked the boxes my items came in to see if their was an ingredients card I was missing; nothing. Even if I am offering a soap that is too small for a soap label, I do provide a hand written list of ingredients. The soaping industry is not federally regulated, it is self regulated. With every effort to keep the soaping industry unregulated, there are guidelines out there soapers should follow. Otherwise we may become regulated which means tighter restrictions that may force those who truly enjoy making soaps, to have to quit. I package soap in a black mesh bag. If upon arrival the mesh bag has soap all over it and you were hoping to gift these soaps, please carefully untie, remove the label (please save it) open the bag, remove the soap, rinse the black mesh bag, let air dry. When fully dry, replace soap, add tag, and tie a bow. Enjoy!

What are E.O.’s and F.O.’s?

Jenny J.

EO’s are essential oils, and FO’s are fragrance oils

Essential oils are a fragrance material extracted from a plant material which could be the stems, leaves, petals, seeds, or roots. Essential oils are in fact not oils in the same way coconut and olive oils are. Essential oils do not contain fatty acids; however, essential oils are lipophilic meaning oil loving and do not blend with water. Essential oils small molecular size is what makes them more aromatic than vegetable oils. There are many beneficial properties of the different essential oils. The lack of scientific studies does not mean the medicinal claims are not valid, one should be careful with one’s expectations.

Did you know that some essential oils can have damaging effects or harmful properties? People using essential oils (soap makers) need to be aware of the photosensitizers found in certain essential oils. When someone uses a product with an essential oil which contain photosensitizers and has been absorbed or left on the skin and is then exposed to sunlight, one can experience damage to the skin such as a sunburn. Photo-toxicity concerns are redness, itching, and irritation. ***When using essential oils, I make certain the soaps I create do not contain photosensitizers. ***

Fragrance oils can be composed of essential oils, specific constituents of essential oils, aroma chemicals, solvents, and/or diluents. Fragrance oils which are marketed as nature identical means it is created of natural materials to mimic an expensive or endangered essential oil. Fragrance oils are extremely common when the natural material is unsafe or restricted for cosmetic applications, in addition to making it possible to mimic scents that cannot be obtained from natural materials. Skin safe solvents are used in fragrance oils to dissolve aroma chemicals that do not readily incorporate into a blend. Diluents are used in fragrance oils to dilute the potency of an aroma, lower the concentration, or increase safety for skin use.

Due to the wide variety of components that a fragrance oil may contain, some fragrance oils work well in soap making while others do not.

Pictured below are my essential oils and fragrance oils collection.

Let’s Dish! Soap Dish That Is!

Soap Holder/Dish/Lift are a Must! If you want to prolong the life of your soap you will want to use a soap holder, a soap dish, or a soap lift. I would advise you try to allow your soap to dry out in between uses. You do not want your soap to remain in standing water. My local potter, Susan Gerr makes soap dishes for me which fit all of the soaps I create. Susan has also gone above and beyond to create various patterns on the soap dishes and the soap bowls, to allow air under the soap and keep the soap from sitting in standing water. It is advisable to empty and rinse your soap dishes if water collects. I would also recommend rinsing out a soap lift regularly as well. Pictured are the various soap dishes and bowls I offer for sale on my ETSY site made by Susan. Typically with a first time soap purchase I include a generic soap holder and or lift to help get you started.

Please check out Susan’s site for more of her available products and location. I have many beautiful items from Birch Mountain Pottery in my home.

https://www.birchmountainpottery.com/